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    From the Bar

    Sea Monster cozies up to sushi burrito

    blair r. li

    When you select the omakase (chef’s choice) menu at Fuji at Assembly, don’t be surprised if one of the courses turns out to be a sushi burrito. This cuisine-spanning mashup, a creation of executive sushi chef Ming Cao, takes a toasted sheet of nori, layers it with seasoned rice, then rolls it with fillings such as sashimi-style salmon, tomato, arugula, sliced jalapeño, and a fried egg. The slender bundle, cut on the bias, reveals a colorful center plus an oozy golden yolk. Beverage director Ginny Edwards loves to pair the maki-that’s-not-a-maki (also available a la carte) with a 2014 Sea Monster “Octopussy” ($14 a glass, $56 a bottle), a versatile white blend from Paso Robles, Calif., crafted from viognier, riesling, grenache blanc, and chardonnay grapes. “It’s light and fanciful, but with the breadth of chardonnay,” she says, explaining that its “lively, vibrant” sensibility, plus a whisper of residual sugar, pair nicely with the subtle flavors of raw fish. With a combo this delicious, we’re happy to let these pros do the choosing.

    Fuji at Assembly, at Assembly Row, 320 Canal St., Somerville, 617-628-8883, www.fujiatassembly.com

    ELLEN BHANG

    Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com.