fb-pixel Skip to main content
From the Bar

What is scrumpet? Something that pairs well with dry sherry.

Lena Johnson for The Boston Globe

If scrumpet and oloroso sherry are new to your dining vocabulary, Rebecca Theris will happily translate both dish and drink. The wine director and co-owner of Loyal Nine — the year-old East Cambridge restaurant featuring cuisine inspired by Colonial New England — starts with the scrumpet.

Chef and co-owner Marc Sheehan takes braised pork shoulder, shreds and seasons it, then rolls the meat into a roulade. Slices are coated in brioche crumbs, fried until golden, and served with razor clams on a bed of sauteed lacinato kale. Those leafy greens are drizzled with ginger vinegar and a house-made, umami-intensive Leicestershire sauce.


With this entree, Theris recommends a dry oloroso sherry, an amber-hued fortified wine called “Cruz del Mar”($11 a glass) crafted by Bodegas César Florido on the coast of southern Spain. “It’s rich and elegant, withsavory, nutty flavors,” she enthuses, saying that the pour’s food-friendly acidity, velvety texture, and salted caramel notes play perfectly with the pork and shellfish. Add this pairing to your lexicon of good eats.

Loyal Nine, 660 Cambridge St., Cambridge, 617-945-2576, www.loyalninecambridge.com

Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com.