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From the Bar

Eat the whole shrimp, drink the whole glass at Ashmont Grill

Sadio Desmond

Tara O’Riordan has a terrific pink wine for guests dining al fresco. The general manager of Dorchester’s Ashmont Grill recommends a 2015 “Crios” Rosé of Malbec ($9 a glass, $34 a bottle) from Argentine producer Susana Balbo. “It has a vibrant rose color,” the wine pro says. “It’s crisp and fruity but dry. It meets all the criteria for a summer rosé.” The wine — with strawberry, cherry, and appetizing weight — pairs delightfully with a shareable starter of crispy whole salt and pepper shrimp, prepared by chef-owner Chris Douglass. The head-on crustaceans are flash-fried, tossed with tingly Sichuan peppercorns, cilantro, and sliced Fresno chiles full of zippy heat. O’Riordan encourages folks to eat the shrimp intact because the shell becomes delectably crunchy from its golden fat bath. Some diners need coaxing at first but eventually find their sea legs. “By the end, they are popping the whole thing into their mouths,” she says. “The really adventurous eat the peppers.”

Ashmont Grill, 555 Talbot Ave., Dorchester, 617-825-4300, www.ashmontgrill.com



Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com.