Food & dining
    Next Score View the next score

    From the Bar

    When a buttery fish meets a citrusy wine

    A 2015 Nisia Old Vines Verdejo paired with black cod.
    Big Night Entertainment Group
    A 2015 Nisia Old Vines Verdejo paired with black cod.

    Whether you call it sablefish or black cod, the rich yet delicately textured seafood requires expert handling and the right wine. At Empire Asian Restaurant & Lounge in the Seaport District, executive chef Kevin Long charbroils an Alaska-sourced fillet, brushes it with a sake-soy glaze, then plates it on miso sauce with baby bok choy and shelled edamame. Alongside, bar manager Nancy Nguyen recommends a 2015 Nisia Old Vines Verdejo ($13 a glass, $52 a bottle), a distinctive white hailing from Rueda, Spain. A portion of that pour was fermented in large-format oak barrels, then blended with batches made in stainless steel. All of the wine was aged on the lees, the fine yeast sediment that remains after fermentation. These steps lend nuance and texture, but don’t detract from the bright fruit cultivated from high-elevation, hundred-year-old vines. “The citrus of the wine meshes together with the buttery fish,” Nguyen says. “It’s light, crisp, and refreshing, and so easy to drink.” Ellen Bhang

    Empire Asian Restaurant & Lounge, 1 Marina Park Drive, Boston, 617-295-0001,

    Ellen Bhang can be reached at