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Quick Bite

At Eataly restaurant Terra, a view of the sky, a connection to the land

Keith Bedford/Globe Staff

Where to Terra, the latest restaurant inside Italian mega-market Eataly. This one is up on the third floor, with a wood-burning grill as its hearth and heart.

What for Earth mothers, nature boys, and charcuterie stalkers: “Terra” means earth in Italian, and all of the dishes are meant to highlight a connection with the land. And you may remember chef de cuisine Dan Bazzinotti from his time at Bergamot and BISq, where he was particularly known for his pates, sausages, and terrines.

The scene Urban greenhouse-slash-potting shed, with the grill functioning as a kind of classy fire pit in the middle. The ceiling is made up of glass panes, letting in light and views of the surrounding buildings. Potted ferns hang everywhere, and ivy drips from the ceiling beams; more plants and gardening implements are arrayed on wood shelves. Women in tank dresses and men with rolled-up sleeves celebrate the return of warm weather by forking up charcoal-roasted asparagus with poached eggs and spring-pea ravioli. A little girl with a green bow in her hair and glittery high-top sneakers shares a late dinner with her parents, yawning with vigor; she is winding down, while behind her at communal tables, groups of friends toast to the evening just getting started.

What you’re eating Little things and big things: Bruschette come with various toppings, from burrata with olive oil to a green puree of garbanzos and cured fish roe. There are skewers of grilled shrimp and lamb meatballs, and small plates including grilled oysters and saffron arancini with Bolognese. Rabbit agnolotti and cavatelli with lamb ragu are on the pasta menu; a chef’s selection of “things on a board” features charcuterie, cheese, and more. Bigger plates include a whole roasted fish with lemon; quick-cooked calamari in a tomato sauce with raisins, pine nuts, and caperberries; and the mixed grill, with lamb leg, pork belly, pork sausage, and veal braciole. For dessert, try a sweet version of the bread salad panzanella with one of the many amari.

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Care for a drink? Terra has an interesting beer program, barrel-aging selections from Dogfish Head, Baladin, and Cambridge Brewing Co. There is also a wine list featuring more than 300 labels from Italy’s many wine regions, as well as a handful of Italy-inspired house cocktails (Tiki Italiano, anyone?).

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Overheard The place is crowded on a warm weeknight: “It’s like the crazies got loose,” a man says to his neighbor at the bar. “Did you hear what Sean Spicer said about the Nazis,” hollers a woman in a black turtleneck. “So can we see a picture of her?” a woman cajoles a friend with a new love interest. “It’s going to be the summer of the cold shoulder,” observes a middle-aged diner taking in the shoulder-baring tops at a table of young women. An entire communal table empties out. “Now it’s quiet in here,” a woman says to her friend with relief.

Eataly, 800 Boylston St., Back Bay, Boston, 617-807-7300, www.eataly.com/us_en/stores/boston/terra


Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @devrafirst.