Savory scented soup stock greets you at Ebisuya Japanese Market in Medford on Sundays. That’s when fresh, hot bowls of house-made ramen noodles are on offer from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. — or “until they run out, whichever comes first,” says co-owner Hideki Hiromoto. Hiromoto starts making the fresh, egg-less noodles on Friday for his Sunday-only pop-up shop, and to fill orders from local Japanese restaurants. He makes his noodles with precision in an imported stainless-steel machine that mixes, flattens, and cuts the dough into wavy strands. The Yamato Manufacturing Company not only makes the machines, but also trains buyers in the art of making ramen and its stock. “I went to ramen school,” says Hiromoto proudly.
Customers choose from among three soup flavors — bright, refreshing citrusy yuzu, savory soy, and spicy miso with a satisfying kick — and from two consistencies, light and thick. For $5 you get a Styrofoam bowl containing a tapas-size portion — about 3½ ounces of noodles in broth, topped with a slice of tender pork butt and a sprinkling of scallions. “The bowls are inexpensive and portions are small enough so that you try different combinations,” says Hiromoto. (Noodles, broth, and pork are also available frozen throughout the week.)
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The specialty grocery is buzzing with shoppers and eaters. Arnold Ng of Medford comes almost every Sunday with his wife, Patricia, for the noodles. “They hit the spot,” he says. “You can also get freshly made sushi.” Ebisuya Japanese Market, 65 Riverside Ave., Medford, 781-391-0012, www.ebisuyamarket.com.
Debra Samuels can be reached at dgsamuels@gmail.com.