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    From the Bar

    From the Bar: At Yvonne’s, chablis pairs with lobster Thermidor — on a bun

    Chablis paired with lobster Thermidor — on a bun — at Yvonne’s.
    Chablis paired with lobster Thermidor — on a bun — at Yvonne’s.

    Reprising a holiday tradition started by its predecessor Locke-Ober, Yvonne’s opens its doors for lunch on select Fridays this month. Dishes on the midday menu are inspired by archived recipes of the venerable supper club, reimagined by culinary director Tom Berry and executive chef Juan Pedrosa. Lobster Roll Thermidor takes luxurious crustacean meat — baked with butter, Gruyere, and brandy — and tucks it into a split griddled bun. Alongside, sommelier Nick Morisi pours a 2015 Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis ($18 a glass, $70 a bottle). “White Burgundy is such a classic pairing for lobster,” he says. He reassures guests that the bright, minerally white, which is crafted from chardonnay, is a world away from a “wood chip, vanilla bomb” style that some associate with the grape. The acidity of the French pour, he says, “sparks you back up” between bites of the indulgent sandwich. Reserve a seat on Dec. 8, 15, or 22, or just drop by. “We encourage walk-ins,” Morisi enthuses. “The bar is a great space to join us.”

    Yvonne’s, 2 Winter Place, Boston, 617-267-0047,