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FROM THE BAR

From the Bar: An alpine sparkler pairs with the season’s best crudo

Natasha Moustache

Furlani “Alpino” Frizzante synchs with a crudo featuring Nantucket Bay scallops at Pammy’s.

By Ellen Bhang Globe correspondent 

At Pammy’s, Lauren Hayes is pouring a delicious, fizzy wine from northern Italy. “It’s so lively and evocative of the place,” says the general manager and wine director, referring to a 2016 Furlani “Alpino” Frizzante ($15 a glass, $60 a bottle). “You can feel it’s an alpine wine.” The cloudy pour, which sports gentle bubbles, is crafted by fourth-generation winemaker Matteo Furlani, who grows lagarino, nosiola, and verderbara grapes in his family’s biodynamic vineyards in the Dolomites, perched high above the city of Trento. In addition to citrus and hazelnuts, the wine expresses pine — not in a resinous way, explains the wine pro, but akin to the scent of mountain woodlands. It synchs beautifully with a crudo featuring Nantucket Bay scallops, now at the peak of their blink-or-you’ll-miss-it season. Chef and co-owner Chris Willis plates the pristine shellfish with California uni, Sicilian pistachios, and winter citrus like blood orange and calamondin, a kumquat relative. “It’s a very engaging dish,” enthuses Hayes. “Every bite is a little bit different, and the quality of the bubbles in the wine adds another texture.”

Pammy’s, 928 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-945-1761, www.pammyscambridge.com

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ELLEN BHANG