Food & dining


Nikkei-style fried chicken meets a Canary Islands red


At Ruka, the Peruvian-Japanese restaurant in The Godfrey Hotel, guests are mesmerized by how the fried chicken is plated. Matt Berkovitch, general manager and sommelier, describes how executive chef Thomas Park adorns the crunchy-saucy morsels with bonito flakes, which undulate in the heat rising from the poultry. “People stop and stare,” Berkovitch says. “They ask, ‘Is it alive?’ ” After assuring them it’s not, he recommends a terrific wine. A 2015 Suertes del Marques “7 Fuentes” Valle de la Orotava ($13 a glass, $52 a bottle) is a red blend of listán negro and tintilla grapes, hailing from Spain’s Canary Islands off the coast of Morocco. “It’s really beautiful and earthy,” he enthuses. “It has undeniable white pepper and smokiness on the nose.” Those qualities, together with lively acidity, refresh the palate after each bite of the crispy chicken, sauced with a brown butter-honey glaze. This weekend, stop by and tuck in. What’s in the glass will turn your head as much as what’s waving at you from the plate.

Ruka, 505 Washington St.,
Downtown Crossing, Boston, 617-266-0102,