When the Aquitaine Group closed modern red sauce joint La Motta’s earlier this year, the team at Cinquecento was ready. The South End Roman-inspired trattoria, just blocks from its now-shuttered sister restaurant, is serving some of La Motta’s favorites as part of a new bar menu, prepared by chef de cuisine Justin Winters and available every night after 5 p.m. One of those plates is bucatini carbonara. “It’s like spaghetti with a hole in the center,” says general manager Jamie Giammarino, describing how the tubular strands are tossed with pecorino, black pepper, and topped with cured egg yolk and guanciale, cured pork jowl. With it, she recommends a 2016 Cavazza pinot grigio ($10 a glass, $40 a bottle, also available as a half or full carafe). “It’s a clean, crisp wine with a citrus aftertaste,” she says, talking up how the medium-bodied, stainless steel-fermented white from Italy’s Veneto pairs with the creamy-eggy pasta. “We’ve had quite a few of La Motta’s regulars,” she reports. “They’re glad that there’s somewhere they can go to get the things they love.”

Cinquecento Roman Trattoria, 500 Harrison Ave., Boston, 617-338-9500, www.cinquecentoboston.com