Where to Adelita in West Concord, which bills itself as an organic Mexican restaurant and margarita bar — an exciting first for the area. It replaces Vincenzo’s, a town hangout.
What for Mexican food from Kristin Canty and Charlie Foster, who run Woods Hill Table just down the street. Meats come from Canty’s Farm at Woods Hill in Bath, N.H. Soon, the team will expand beyond the ’burbs and into Boston, taking over the Seaport’s Anthony’s Pier 4 space, worlds away from cozy little West Concord, where you can almost hear the “Murder, She Wrote” theme song playing in the distance.
The scene Lively at lunchtime, populated mainly by an older crowd of couples and friends, catching up. A few curious passersby stop into the host area, inquiring about reservations. A lone man at the bar chats up a bartender; in the background, Mexican music plays. Waiting for a table? Linger near the entrance to gaze at Mexican dolls, skulls, and a copy of “Adelita: A Mexican Cinderella Story” (the name refers to female soldiers who fought in the Mexican revolution). It’s spacious and comfortable — and, since it’s in a shopping plaza, there’s plenty of parking.
What you’re eating This is Foster’s ode to Mexican street food. (His wife is Mexican.) At lunch, share plates of pork, pork sausage, and grilled steak tacos, all sourced with meat from Canty’s farm ($12-$13). Quesadillas ($8) use the same meats; vegetarians should try the version liberally stuffed with setas (adobo mushrooms), glazed with a light, sweet sour cream. There are also tortas ($11-$13): grilled bread packed with meat and various combinations of refried beans, pickled peppers and onions, cabbage, lettuce, avocado, and chipotle cream. At dinner, there are larger and pricier platters served with rice and refried beans: adobo-marinated, grass-fed, organic Woods Hill lamb ($29); grass-fed, organic steak ($23); and chili rellenos filled with Oaxacan cheese, tomato, and cilantro sauce ($17).
Care for a drink? There are lots of tequila-based cocktails, like the namesake margarita made with organic lime juice and organic agave syrup. There are also beet and guava versions.
Overheard Excited inquiries; town gossip. A fleece-clad gentleman ambles in and pauses at the waiting area. “So, is it worth getting a dinner reservation in advance?” he asks the hostess. “Oh, we don’t take reservations, but peak hours are six to eight,” she says. “Do you have a paper menu?” he wonders. “It’s all online!” she replies. He appears satisfied. Two friends catch up in a corner, enjoying the kind of conspiratorial chatter that only comes from years of shared carpools and soccer games. “Well, one of her boys is in Brooklyn. An artist. But the other one’s in medical school,” one tells the other.
1200 Main St., Concord, 978-254-0710, www.adelitaconcord.comKara Baskin can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.