Food & dining

by the glass

Mussels and wine are a love letter to the neighborhood

Christopher Haynes

At Brassica Kitchen + Cafe in Jamaica Plain, Noah Todoroff is pouring a 2016 Walnut City Wineworks Pinot Gris, hailing from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. “The thing I love is that when you begin sipping, you get pear and apple, then a creamy mouthfeel,” says the general manager and beverage director. And, because it’s nicely priced at $12 a glass and $48 a bottle, you need not hesitate treating yourself. The lively white complements a steaming bowl of Chatham mussels, prepared by chef-owners Philip Kruta and Jeremy Kean. The bivalves are simmered in a miso-infused red Thai curry and served with toasted sourdough, slathered with nasturtium compound butter. After the spicy salinity of the dish, the wine pro says the nutty, almond-like finish of the wine refreshes. It’s clear what motivates this team: “We love to share the things we love with the people we love,” Todoroff enthuses.

Brassica Kitchen + Cafe, 3710 Washington St., Jamaica Plain, 617-477-4519, www.brassicakitchen.com

Ellen Bhang

Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com.