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The confident cook

Recipe: How to make the richest, creamiest scrambled eggs

Ultrarich scrambled eggs with herbs
Ultrarich scrambled eggs with herbs(karoline boehm goodnick for The Boston Globe)

The perfect centerpiece for an intimate brunch or breakfast with your bestie, these rich and creamy scrambled eggs are stirred with extra yolks and crème fraîche. They’re cooked gently in a double-boiler to create a soft custard. Stir constantly over gently simmering water because the edges cook faster than the center. When the mixture is almost set, slow the cooking down a bit with a second infusion of butter, and keep on stirring. The finished eggs will look a little like golden porridge and the small curds will melt in your mouth. When the eggs are done, race them to the table — you don’t want them to sit around — and sprinkle with fresh herbs such as parsley, chives, tarragon, chervil, or dill. Toast is essential, and roasted tomatoes add a flourish and acidic contrast. For an over-the-top garnish, serve with caviar, smoked salmon, or truffles, and mimosas, of course.

Ultrarich scrambled eggs with herbs

Serves 4

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4tablespoons butter, cut into small cubes
8eggs
2egg yolks
2tablespoons crème fraîche
½teaspoon salt
2tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (parsley, chives, tarragon, chervil, dill)
Black pepper, to taste (optional)

1. Fill a heavy-bottom saucepan with 2 inches of water. Set a large, stainless steel bowl inside and make sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Bring the water to a boil and lower the heat to a gentle simmer.

2. In another large bowl, combine eggs, egg yolks, crème fraîche, and salt. Use a whisk to beat until quite frothy.

3. Place half the butter in the bowl over the water. Hold onto the edge of the bowl with a potholder. When the butter melts, add the eggs. With a rubber spatula, stir the eggs constantly, making sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl. When the eggs are ¾ of the way cooked — this will take about 12 minutes — stir in the remaining butter. Continue stirring constantly for 3 minutes more, or until the eggs are fully cooked. Total stirring time is about 15 minutes.

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4. Stir in half the chopped herbs. Transfer the eggs to small bowls or plates and garnish with the remaining herbs and black pepper.


Karoline Boehm Goodnick can be reached at kboehmgoodnick@gmail.com.