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quick bite

Fired up about Dragon Pizza in Somerville’s Davis Square

Charlie Redd (left) and Keenan Langlois serve up pizza and kabobs in Somerville’s Davis Square.
Charlie Redd (left) and Keenan Langlois serve up pizza and kabobs in Somerville’s Davis Square.(Jim Davis/Globe Staff)

Where to Dragon Pizza in Somerville’s Davis Square.

What for Pizza and kabobs from Charlie Redd, who had a steady following at Roslindale gathering place Redd’s in Rozzie. Chef Keenan Langlois (The Sinclair) worked with Redd at Hamersley’s Bistro many years ago, and chef Antonio Reyes is a familiar face for Redd’s fans.

The scene Your high school cafeteria, all gussied up for a big dance. The lights are fluorescent and unforgiving. Paper menus are hung up on the wall, secured with clothespins, mounted on a background of what looks like neon-pink and black graffiti. There’s a motto scrawled in marker on the bottom: “Pizza makes me think anything is possible,” attributed to Black Flag’s Henry Rollins. Orange pendant lights swing low from the ceiling, and they look made of paper, too. There’s a TV mounted on the wall, playing “Best in Show,” and the Rolling Stones’ greatest hits blare from the speakers. This seems to be an unofficial meeting place for Men in Marvel T-Shirts Carrying Very Boxy Backpacks.

Customers Ralph Bryant (left) and Jeff Peters (right) eating at Dragon Pizza in Davis Square.
Customers Ralph Bryant (left) and Jeff Peters (right) eating at Dragon Pizza in Davis Square. (Jim Davis/Globe Staff)

What you’re eating Boston’s best pizza. I’m not kidding. This is the tastiest pizza I’ve ever eaten in this town — crispy, crackly, sooty, chewy, stretchy, easily foldable New York-style triangular bliss with orange oil that saturates a paper plate before you whisk it to the table. Order an 18-inch pie (six wide slices) with toppings just this side of traditional: broccoli rabe, scallions, shiitake and porcini mushrooms, linguica. Slices start at $3.75; whole pizzas are $17 and up. There are specials, too, like a BLT pizza with shredded lettuce, squirted with ranch. If you’re not in a pizza mood, order a five-ounce shrimp, cauliflower, chili maple pork loin, or chicken kabob skewer, or salads with vegetables from Verrill Farm. Salads are not a soggy afterthought here: Try the grains and greens, made with cider vinegar-laced quinoa, farro, grits, corn, and tomatoes, or watermelon with feta. For dessert, get a $3 scoop of dark chocolate or vanilla bean gelato.

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The BLT Pizza at Dragon Pizza in Davis Square.
The BLT Pizza at Dragon Pizza in Davis Square. (Jim Davis/Globe Staff)

Care for a drink? Beer, wine, and cocktails are on the way, but in the meantime order soda (free refills) or house raspberry lemonade (with basil and mint).

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Overheard Weekend summations; pizza exclamations. “I went to Providence. It was so tiring. We had pho,” a lone fellow in bike shorts murmurs into his phone while scooping up a slice. A curly-haired dude makes himself comfortable on a bench. “This pizza looks right. It looks right! I grew up on this,” he exclaims to the guys behind the counter.

233 Elm St., Davis Square, Somerville,
617-764-5026, www.deliciousand.co

Dragon Pizza in Davis Square.
Dragon Pizza in Davis Square. (Jim Davis/Globe Staff)


Kara Baskin can be reached at kara.baskin@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @kcbaskin.