Where to Dragon Pizza in Somerville’s Davis Square.
What for Pizza and kabobs from Charlie Redd, who had a steady following at Roslindale gathering place Redd’s in Rozzie. Chef Keenan Langlois (The Sinclair) worked with Redd at Hamersley’s Bistro many years ago, and chef Antonio Reyes is a familiar face for Redd’s fans.
The scene Your high school cafeteria, all gussied up for a big dance. The lights are fluorescent and unforgiving. Paper menus are hung up on the wall, secured with clothespins, mounted on a background of what looks like neon-pink and black graffiti. There’s a motto scrawled in marker on the bottom: “Pizza makes me think anything is possible,” attributed to Black Flag’s Henry Rollins. Orange pendant lights swing low from the ceiling, and they look made of paper, too. There’s a TV mounted on the wall, playing “Best in Show,” and the Rolling Stones’ greatest hits blare from the speakers. This seems to be an unofficial meeting place for Men in Marvel T-Shirts Carrying Very Boxy Backpacks.
What you’re eating Boston’s best pizza. I’m not kidding. This is the tastiest pizza I’ve ever eaten in this town — crispy, crackly, sooty, chewy, stretchy, easily foldable New York-style triangular bliss with orange oil that saturates a paper plate before you whisk it to the table. Order an 18-inch pie (six wide slices) with toppings just this side of traditional: broccoli rabe, scallions, shiitake and porcini mushrooms, linguica. Slices start at $3.75; whole pizzas are $17 and up. There are specials, too, like a BLT pizza with shredded lettuce, squirted with ranch. If you’re not in a pizza mood, order a five-ounce shrimp, cauliflower, chili maple pork loin, or chicken kabob skewer, or salads with vegetables from Verrill Farm. Salads are not a soggy afterthought here: Try the grains and greens, made with cider vinegar-laced quinoa, farro, grits, corn, and tomatoes, or watermelon with feta. For dessert, get a $3 scoop of dark chocolate or vanilla bean gelato.
Care for a drink? Beer, wine, and cocktails are on the way, but in the meantime order soda (free refills) or house raspberry lemonade (with basil and mint).
Overheard Weekend summations; pizza exclamations. “I went to Providence. It was so tiring. We had pho,” a lone fellow in bike shorts murmurs into his phone while scooping up a slice. A curly-haired dude makes himself comfortable on a bench. “This pizza looks right. It looks right! I grew up on this,” he exclaims to the guys behind the counter.
233 Elm St., Davis Square, Somerville,