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Rocco’s sweet creations will make you smile

The tiramisu doughnut at Rocco’s Doughnut Co. in Millbury is filled with coffee-infused mascarpone, topped with whipped cream, and adorned with ladyfingers. You need a plate and cutlery to eat it. Nutter Butter cookies are embedded in another doughnut. Kit Kat bars placed on top of a thick chocolate glaze on one other will make you grin.

Then there is the cannoli doughnut, filled with thick cream, topped with vanilla frosting, and studded with shards of cannoli shells and chocolate chips ($3.50 each; $34 for a dozen). The humble shop offers some of the heftiest, most enterprising hand-cut doughnut creations around. Doughnuts from other stores look puny next to these. Cake and yeast-risen, the selection rotates daily, but there’s always classics, like crullers, honey glazed, and chocolate frosted. Order an assortment and you’ll take them home in a sturdy pizza box. Joe Astrella and his family opened the shop last year and immediately had raves and lines snaking out the door. A second location will soon open in Westborough. Astrella’s sons Vinny, 27, and Domenic, 18, are the bakers and marketers. Before they opened, he said, they tooled around checking out other craft doughnut shops. “We’re bringing in quality and a hundred different combinations.” The doughnut business is not new to this family — Astrella’s father, Rocco, owned Dunkin’ Donuts shops in Saugus in the 1950s and is the inspiration for sparking the family’s interest to come back to the business. A framed photograph of Rocco, who passed away 11 years ago, hangs over the shop’s counter. A sketch of the photo decorates the pizza boxes. “Big, Fresh and Delicious” is the company motto. And if you want one, you may have to get there as the sun rises. The shop opens at 6:30 a.m. and closes at 1 p.m., or whenever the doughnuts run out. It’s open only from Thursday to Sunday. 238 Millbury Ave., Millbury, 508-917-6608, www.roccosdoughnutcompany.com.

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ANN TRIEGER KURLAND