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Warm potato salad with vermouth dressing
Warm potato salad with vermouth dressingSally Pasley Vargas for the Boston Globe

Serves 6

The endlessly versatile potato does it again in this flavorful warm salad, ready to accompany a roast leg of lamb or chicken, or to sing backup to a fluffy omelet and a salad. No mayonnaise is involved in this variation on a classic. Instead, vermouth, capers, and a vinaigrette dressing add a bright, sophisticated note, making it perfect for an impromptu meal. If you have leftovers, mash them into an oiled skillet the next day, shaping it into a thick cake and browning it nicely on both sides over medium heat. Cue the cheese omelet.

¼cup white or red wine vinegar or cider vinegar
1tablespoon Dijon mustard
1clove garlic finely chopped
Salt and black pepper, to taste
½cup mixed olive oil and vegetable oil
2pounds potatoes (such as Red Bliss, Yukon Gold, or new potatoes), quartered and sliced pencil-thin
¼cup white vermouth
2tablespoons chopped red onion
3scallions, chopped
2tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1tablespoon capers, rinsed and lightly chopped
4pickled red cherry peppers (such as Peppadew peppers), lightly chopped

1. For the vinaigrette: In a bowl, whisk the vinegar, mustard, and garlic, salt, and black pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil until the dressing emulsifies. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

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2. Fill a large pot with 3 inches of water, a generous pinch of salt, and the potatoes. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and set on the lid askew. Let the water bubble steadily for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with the tip of a paring knife.

3. With a slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes to a colander. Use the spoon to return them to the hot, dry pot. Let them sit on over very low heat to dry for 2 to 3 minutes. Watch them carefully.

4. Turn off the heat. Sprinkle the vermouth over the potatoes and shake the pot to distribute the vermouth. Let the potatoes rest for 1 to 2 minutes to soak it up.

5. Add the red onion, scallions, parsley, capers, red peppers, salt, and black pepper. Sprinkle the potatoes with the vinaigrette and stir gently but thoroughly with a rubber spatula until they are coated all over (you may not need all the dressing). Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Serve warm. Caleb Barber

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Caleb Barber can be reached at calebjoffice13@gmail.com.