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Where to Moody’s Delicatessen & Provisions.

Why Its temporary closure earlier this year sent meat lovers into mourning throughout Waltham and beyond, saddening those who had come to rely on its husky sandwiches, to-go charcuterie, and boisterous dining room. Partner Joshua Smith departed, but cofounder and owner Dan Revers has revived the place with some high-profile help.

The backstory Joshua Smith opened Moody’s in 2013, starting with a sandwich shop and expanding next door with a restaurant called the Backroom. Next came a taco and barbecue parlor. Now, the deli and restaurant have returned: Revers has enlisted executive chef Jeff Howe from L’Andana and Teatro, as well as general manager Alex Hage from Ostra and L’Andana, to take things over. Soon they’ll replace the taqueria, too.

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What to eat The space looks pretty much unchanged: You’ll find meat swinging from the ceiling, meat in cases, meat on the menu. (All of it comes from house label New England Charcuterie.) Browse stacks of saucisson sec and soppressata; beef jerky and blood sausage. Pop a Lipitor and load up on wedges of lardo and pate. Stock up on provisions from the cooler, everything you might require for a gourmet picnic or barbecue: pickles of every persuasion, bierwurst, raspberry sorbet. Oh, and you can also eat here, too. Order breakfast and lunch at the deli counter, from a menu similar to the original: corned beef on rye with Swiss, sauerkraut, and Thousand Island ($13); pulled pork with sweet slaw ($12); pastrami with pickle mustard ($13). House-made chips are still there, too, standing nobly atop the counter in little bags, waiting to be devoured alongside doughnuts, coconut macaroons, and chocolate chip cookies.

What to drink Try a seasonal mocktail, perhaps the Matcha Needed After Last Night with matcha tea, almond milk, honey, almond, and vanilla. Or a Sweet Adeline, with lavender, butterfly pea flower, lemon, and soda. For the purely thirsty, there’s also iced tea, iced coffee, and Dr. Brown’s sodas.

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The Takeaway The comfy kind of place you’d picture a graying dad visiting on a Sunday morning, sunglasses concealing a hangover, before an afternoon post-soccer block party. Steely Dan and Paul Simon play reassuringly in the background. There is enough meat here to make a museum, and plenty of boast-worthy varieties. Service can be nonurgent, shall we say, but that gives you more time to inspect those coolers.

468 Moody St., Waltham, 781-216-8732, www.moodyswaltham.com


Kara Baskin can be reached at kara.baskin@globe
.com. Follow her on Twitter @kcbaskin.