Black Lamb is a rare beast: Equal parts elegance and comfort

Duck breast frites with orange bearnaise and watercress herb salad at Black Lamb.Pat Greenhouse/Globe Staff/Globe Staff

Where to: Black Lamb, the new South End spot from the team behind Bar Mezzana, Shore Leave, and No Relation.

Why: In the old Stephi’s on Tremont space, Black Lamb has a primo location and nicely splits the difference between culinary elegance and neighborly comfort.

The Back Story: Chef Colin Lynch and crew — many of them alums of Barbara Lynch’s restaurant group — are slowly but surely colonizing the South End. They started with Italian restaurant Bar Mezzana, moved on to tiki bar Shore Leave and its open-secret sushi bar, No Relation, and now they’ve got an American bistro as well. What brings these concepts together? A deft way with crudo, sushi, and other raw seafood. Black Lamb executive chef Chris Drown formerly worked at places including Hamersley’s Bistro and O Ya.

Heirloom tomato salad with cloumage and basil.Pat Greenhouse/Globe Staff/Globe Staff

What to Eat: Before you get into the menu, don’t miss the list of oysters and other raw-bar offerings: Scallops on a half-shell with truffle vinaigrette are transcendent, bright and earthy. Then move on to heirloom tomato salads, lobster rolls, duck frites, and more. There’s pie on the dessert menu. Why don’t more places have pie on the dessert menu?

What to Drink: There’s an elegant little wine list with fun surprises (a few nice selections from Greece), a fine selection of local beers, and cocktail standards that are just different enough to be interesting. Clever non-alcoholic cocktails are available, too.

The Takeaway: Black Lamb promises to be a great local hangout for people who like to eat, from a team that knows what it’s doing.

571 Tremont St., South End, Boston, 617-982-6330, www.blacklambsouthend.com