If you go . . .
Where to eat
favorite lunch spot. $10-$15.
Inside the mammoth Noryangjin Fish Market, live fish ordered from the market’s mongers is transformed into South Korea’s take on sushi. (Order fish from a monger and tell him you’ll be dining at BeyolChang and he will take it from there.) Dinner with drinks is about $35.
There’s really only one thing to order here — Samgyetang — chicken, ginseng, and jujube soup, South Korea’s healthy and famous version of chicken noodle soup, and this is one of the best spots to get it. About $12.
A great spot to relax for a coffee or tea in the gallery-rich Insadong neighborhood.
In an alley parallel to the KwanHoon cafe, a great spot to first try traditional Korean cuisine in a farmhouse-style setting. About $20, including drinks.
Where to stay
ChongNo-gu, InSa-dong 87
(English-friendly booking can be made on www.agoda.com)
Tucked into an alley near the Jonggak subway station, this is a smart, modern, and economical spot in the center of town. Rooms from $100.
Mid-range accommodations in a beautiful, traditional home. Cramped quarters are a trade-off for a great location. Ask to be in the main house. About $100.