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If you go to Seoul...

If you go . . .

Where to eat

Cafe Slobbie

DongKyo-dong 163-9

Continue reading below

011-82-2-3143-5525

Take the elevator to the fifth floor to find MinGoo Choi’s

favorite lunch spot. $10-$15.

ByeolChang

13-8 Noryangjin-dong

011-82-2-812-6200

Inside the mammoth Noryangjin Fish Market, live fish ordered from the market’s mongers is transformed into South Korea’s take on sushi. (Order fish from a monger and tell him you’ll be dining at BeyolChang and he will take it from there.) Dinner with drinks is about $35.

HoSu SamKyeTang

ShinGil-dong 342-325

011-82-2-848-2440

There’s really only one thing to order here — Samgyetang — chicken, ginseng, and jujube soup, South Korea’s healthy and famous version of chicken noodle soup, and this is one of the best spots to get it. About $12.

KwanHoon Cafe

KwanHoon-dong 195

011-82-2-732-6469

A great spot to relax for a coffee or tea in the gallery-rich Insadong neighborhood.

YeoGeoRi PoonNyeon

KwanHoon-Dong 192-36

011-82-2-720-4200

In an alley parallel to the KwanHoon cafe, a great spot to first try traditional Korean cuisine in a farmhouse-style setting. About $20, including drinks.

Where to stay

Hotel JR

ChongNo-gu, InSa-dong 87

011-82-2-722-0003

hoteljr.co.kr

(English-friendly booking can be made on www.agoda.com)

Tucked into an alley near the Jonggak subway station, this is a smart, modern, and economical spot in the center of town. Rooms from $100.

Sophia Guesthouse

SoKyeok-dong 157-1

011-82-2-720-7220

sophia-house@hotmail.net

Mid-range accommodations in a beautiful, traditional home. Cramped quarters are a trade-off for a great location. Ask to be in the main house. About $100.

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