A Restaurant’s Take

Borscht belt

Cafe St. Petersburg offers two hearty, warming bowls of the soup.

David Kamerman

Borscht is a versatile soup, with myriad variations; the common ingredient is always beets. Cafe St. Petersburg in Newton offers two hearty, warming bowls. Vegetarian borscht (pictured) is earthy and flavorful, with melt-in-your-mouth chunks of beets and potatoes, slivers of onion, and cabbage. It comes with a side of sour cream and a homemade cabbage pirozhok, a flaky turnover filled with sauteed cabbage and egg. Rich beef borscht, made with a beef stock and cubes of meat, comes with a beef pirozhok.— Lise Stern

CAFE ST. PETERSBURG 57 Union Street, Suite 1, Newton, 617-467-3555,