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With a stone fireplace and cozy sofas in the barroom, The Corner Stop in Cohasset bills itself as a friendly neighborhood spot, but that description belies its refined yet comforting modern American fare. A chicken wings appetizer, finished with an agrodolce glaze, ranks as a customer favorite. The Italian glaze, a reduction of red wine, vinegar, brown sugar, red onion, and crushed red pepper, brings a little heat. As the menu says, angry and sweet.

THE CORNER STOP 235 Hull Street, Cohasset, 781-875-3065, cornerstopeatery.com