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LOCAL FARE

An organic take on Mexican at Adelita in West Concord

Adelita boasts an array of tacos, including beer-battered pollack.
Adelita boasts an array of tacos, including beer-battered pollack.(Jason Doo)

WHO’S IN CHARGE Owner Kristin Canty and Chef Charles Foster — the duo behind farm-to-fork restaurant Woods Hill Table, which opened in 2015 — teamed up once again to bring Adelita to the same West Concord neighborhood.

Canty, who grew up in town, also owns the Farm at Woods Hill in Bath, N.H., from which much of her restaurants’ meat is sourced, and produce is procured locally whenever possible.

“There is a vision and passion for eating sustainable, organic, local foods,” said Adam Miller, Adelita’s general manager.

THE LOCALE Adelita opened in March in the former Vincenzo’s space in a shopping plaza on Main Street. The restaurants boasts 90 seats including bar stools, as well as patio seating during warm weather. Colorful star-shaped lights dangle from the industrial-style ceiling.

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Kids are welcome, especially at lunchtime and in the early evening, with children 12 and younger eating free Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. The crowd turns noticeably more adult after 8 p.m., Miller noted, with the focus typically turning to drinks. That’s little surprise, given there are margaritas available, including organic guava and beet varieties ($10 to $12).

ON THE MENU Foster’s wife and her family hail from the city of Tepic, the capital of the west-central Mexican state of Nayarit. As a result, “a majority of the influence is from his mother-in-law and his love of Mexican cuisine,” Miller said.

Lunch leans heavily on easy-to-hold fare, mainly quesadillas, tacos, and tortas. Tacos ($11 to $14) come three to an order, the lightly browned corn tortillas curling around ingredients such as beer-battered pollack purchased fresh each day from day boats coming into Boston Harbor; carne asada, the grilled steak drizzled with an avocado cream and spiked with spicy jalapeños; and chorizo classically arrayed with onions, cilantro and avocado cream.

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Our order of tacos al pastor, served with salsa verde and sliced limes, married organically grown adobo-marinated chunks of pork with cubed pineapple to form a harmonious blend of savory and sweet.

Tortas ($11 to $14) layer springy, freshly griddled round bread rolls with a choice of meat and toppings. Our chicken tinga torta sandwiched the juicy, tomato-braised poultry with a layer of refried beans, pickled red onions, chopped lettuce, and a smattering of cilantro, and was served with a side of chips (and there was a basket for the table with tomato salsa, for anyone craving more). Other sandwich-style combinations include carnitas with pulled pork, cheddar cheese, and pickled Serrano peppers; chorizo with potato and shredded cabbage; and grilled skirt steak, pico de gallo, and avocado.

Tacos carry over to the dinner menu, during which time the restaurants encourages a small-plate approach to ordering and sharing. But the options expand considerably from there. Sample the elote loco ($9), a Mexican street-food favorite, the organic grilled corn brushed with garlic aioli, chili, and lime juice and rolled in cotija cheese.

There’s also a bright aguachile de vieira ($14), a medley of raw scallops, cucumber, and lime and jalapeño salsa, and indulgent queso fundido ($9), a warm cheese dip that can be accented with crispy chorizo or even grilled nopales ($1).

The enchiladas de pollo ($18) — a combination of Woods Hill Farm chicken, rice, refried beans, and cheese enveloped in tortillas and enrobed in red or green sauce — are popular, Miller said. The chili relleno ($16) stuffs an organic poblano pepper with Oaxaca cheese, rice, and a tomato-cilantro sauce.

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Organic guacamole ($9) is available as an appetizer or on the side, as are frijoles puercos ($6), refried beans blended with braised pork that are “absolutely insane,” Miller said. For those with appetites still, tres leches cake or chocoflan ($6) can round out the meal.

Adelita, 1200 Main St., West Concord, 978-254-0710, www.adelitaconcord.com.


Rachel Lebeaux can be reached at rachel_lebeaux@yahoo.com.