WHO'S IN CHARGE Falling in love — with a man and a business idea — wasn't Olivia Torretta's plan when she left Wakefield to study abroad for two years in Italy. But she did, importing them both home.
In July, she and Jonathan Santini, her Roman-born husband, opened up Cibo (pronounced "chee-bo") Cafe & Bistro in the Greenwood section on Main Street, next to the post office. The church-quiet neighborhood hasn't been the same since.
Olivia's inspiration and passion for recreating the European-style cafe experience — leisurely savoring cibo, the Italian word for uncomplicated daily food and drink, with friends and family — formed during her time in Europe. "There seemed to be a cafe every 10 feet," she said.
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Once home, the young couple tried convincing her parents of the need to create one.
It took time, but Joe and Sarah Torretta, the owners of D'Amici's, a bakery/cafe with locations in Lynn, Melrose, and Reading, stamped their approval and the four partnered to make it happen.
Olivia's dream has exceeded everyone's expectations. Parked cars lining Main Street prove it.
THE ATMOSPHERE Where to eat: inside, al fresco, or drive-through? It's easy to "grab and go" American-style, but one step inside, the European allure entices you to lounge.
Multi-generations are at home here. Mothers sit inside with their children, while a group of 20-somethings enjoy an al fresco brunch, sipping glasses of prosecco (a sparkling Italian wine) and mimosas topped with fruit. Cars snake around to the drive-through behind the building. Hearing Jonathan's Italian accent, you're transported to Roma.
A natural stone wall creates a rich interior, with soft, espresso-brown leather booths and dark wood tables. The white-tiled backsplash glistens behind the counter. There's an extensive espresso bar. Tucked into a corner is a real bar, featuring wine, beer, and cordials. Assorted pastries and desserts tempt from behind a glass case.
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ON THE MENU Everything is made to order, so it can take time. But it’s worth the wait. The Greenwood breakfast sandwich ($6) is a warm, soft, creamy morning pleaser (though served all day): two perfectly cooked eggs, not too hard, not too soft, in between ciabatta (my bread choice) lightly warmed on the grill, with spinach, tomato, red onion, avocado, and Havarti cheese.
My 13-year old daughter gazed speechlessly at her frutti di bosco ($6.50), a big bowl of edible art, thin lines of nutella drizzled across colorful strawberries and blackberries, crunchy granola and walnuts topping vanilla Greek yogurt. Slowly, she devoured it as her older sister raved about the turkey avocado club ($8.50): roasted turkey breast, lean crispy bacon, romaine lettuce, tomato, avocado, and house-made aioli on multigrain bread, lightly warmed to a crisp on the grill without butter, avoiding soggy greasiness.
Flatbread pizzas (pesto and margherita $8, figo $9) are a bit thicker and doughier than what I expected, though very good. The figo pleased my salty/sweet tastebuds, the dough covered with fig spread, arugula, fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced prosciutto, and balsamic glaze, then grilled.
Chewy, gooey mozzarella stretched out from the warm arincette ($10 for 4). These Italian rice balls are made by hand — by Joe — in Lynn, soft, cooked rice molded around mozzarella, peas, and tomato sauce, then rolled in bread crumbs before baking.
Small portions of dessert — key lime pie ($3.30), fruit tart ($3.50), and cannoli ($1.70, small) provide a light taste of sweet sinfulness, after lunch or with a drink. All the breads, pastries, and desserts are from D'Amici's in Lynn.
Just try to resist.
Cibo Cafe & Bistro, 1179 Main St., Wakefield. 781-246-8855, www.cibocafebistro.com .
Kathy Shiels Tully can be reached at kathy@kathyshielstully.com.