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Dining Out

Stoughton deli offers a little slide of New York

The Nova lox platter at Maxie’s Deli includes hard-boiled eggs, cucumbers, red onion, lettuce, and tomato slices.

Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff

The Nova lox platter at Maxie’s Deli includes hard-boiled eggs, cucumbers, red onion, lettuce, and tomato slices.

Maxie’s Deli

117 Sharon St., Stoughton

Mondays through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.;
Sundays 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Accepts credit cards and checks

Handicapped accessible

781-341-1662; www.maxiesdeli.com

My mother, God rest her New Yorker soul, would have loved Maxie’s Deli, a Jewish style deli in an unprepossessing strip mall on Route 27 in Stoughton.

But what’s not to love about a place that serves homemade matzo ball soup piping hot and a noodle kugel that’s cinnamony and light? All for prices that would have warmed my mother’s Depression-honed thrift.

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Maxie’s opened in its current spot in the Cobbs Corner shopping mall in 1993. Open daily for breakfast and lunch, it attracts a steady stream of regulars of all ages. We went on a Saturday at noon, and our fellow diners included families with small children, middle-aged couples, and a fair number of the walker-assisted set.

Our friendly, if slightly harried, waitress quickly delivered coffee and enormous menus, with a vast array of omelet and pancake choices, as well as a long list of sandwiches. We focused on the traditional deli fare, starting with an order of potato latkes ($5.75), six small fried pancakes that were crispy and hot and satisfying.

A bowl of matzo ball soup ($5) arrived in two separate bowls — one filled with a chicken broth studded with carrots, celery, noodles, and pieces of chicken, the other filled with a fist-sized matzo ball that was dense, but light. Combined, they were the ultimate comfort food.

A grilled Reuben sandwich ($8.45) was overflowing with corned beef and had the requisite Russian dressing, sauerkraut, and gooey Swiss cheese soaking through the rye bread. We chose the homemade cole slaw, which was slightly sweet.

The Nova lox platter ($9.75) came on a fish-shaped glass serving dish, and a hefty helping of smoked salmon was accompanied by hard-boiled eggs, cucumbers, red onion, lettuce, and some pale tomato slices. The platter also included a bagel and cream cheese.

Portions were big enough that we packed away what we couldn’t eat for the next day’s lunch.

But we found room for noodle kugel ($3.35), a custardy noodle pudding-cake that was heavenly. Maxie’s brings in cheesecake and apple strudel from the Carnegie Deli in New York, and we couldn’t resist the cheesecake ($4.85), a massive slice of the classic dessert.

Maxie’s also has a deli takeout counter, where the offerings include chopped chicken liver, three kinds of knishes, and cucumber and tomato pickles.

Next Sunday, April 28, at 2 p.m., Maxie’s will hold a pickle-eating contest, with proceeds going to the burn center at Massachusetts General Hospital.

“The burn center is our cause,” said Maxie’s owner, Steve Robbins. “One of our employees was a survivor of the Station (nightclub) fire. He went through 115 surgeries and just had a hand transplant. He’s doing great.”

Maxie’s is a great place to go if you’re craving some real deli. Eat, eat, as my mother would say.

Johanna Seltz can be reached at seltzjohanna@gmail.com.
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