South

Local Fare

In Quincy, a major addition to the food scene

The Rock Shrimp appetizer at the 16C restaurant in Quincy.

Photo by Debee Tlumacki for The Boston Globe

The Rock Shrimp appetizer at the 16C restaurant in Quincy.

IN THE KITCHEN

If talent’s in the blood, 16C owner Kerri Lynch Delaney’s got it. A pastry chef who recently sold her wonderful Babycakes cupcake shop in Quincy, Lynch Delaney is a niece of chef Barbara Lynch, the nationally acclaimed, Boston-based restaurateur behind Beacon Hill’s No. 9 Park, the rarified Menton, and Sportello, to name a few. After growing up in Quincy around the industry — her father owned the Southie favorite Quiet Man Pub — Lynch Delaney honed her craft at culinary school and as the pastry chef and assistant pastry chef at the Quincy Marriott and No. 9 Park, respectively. She developed 16C’s menu with her aunt and has created a great place that’s part Boston, part Quincy, and a heavy-hitting addition to the South Shore restaurant scene.

THE LOCALE

The 78-seat spot, which opened in early April, takes its name from its address at 16 Cottage St., a short alley just off Hancock Street, steps from The Fours and an enormous municipal parking lot. Sited where the old Granite Rail Tavern used to be, 16C is a pristine space with upmarket finishes: big front windows, wooden floors, hanging pendant lights, crisp white walls, gray wainscoting, a sparkling bar. A half wall delineates the place, and the open kitchen has a stone countertop and stools where diners can sit close to the action.

ON THE MENU

Photo by Debee Tlumacki for The Boston Globe

The Quiet Man steak tip dish at the 16C restaurant in Quincy.

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On a crowded first weeknight visit, we start with appetizers: meatballs in marinara ($12) and the cannellini bean, ricotta crostini ($5). I’m expecting two small slices of bruschetta, but a savory white bean puree arrives, topped with inch-long pieces of broccoli rabe and hunks of focaccia. The light meatballs are served in the mild acid of a bright red sauce that counters their mellow flavor. On a second visit, another of the crostini apps, the burrata ($5), is a big round of the creamy cheese drizzled with local honey that makes it taste like gelato — until you pop a roasted cherry tomato into your mouth and everything changes.

Just forget about the rock shrimp appetizer ($14): It’s out of this world. Seven large, perfectly cooked shrimp in an ultra-light, crispy batter are served with a garlic aioli and scattered scallion curlicues. The subtle, light parmesan vinaigrette on the Bibb salad ($9) clues you into the fact that the thicker, more commercial-style dressing served with the salad that sides the Quiet Man steak tips ($20) is an exact replica of Lynch Delaney’s father’s well-loved original. These juicy tips are served with a pickled pepper, a hunk of grilled bread, and either rice or what turn out to be world-class French fries.

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A mountainous, double patty wagyu cheeseburger ($15) is speared together with a pickle-pierced skewer and layered with special sauce, cheese, tomato, and lettuce. It’s an irresistible Guy Fieri-sized sandwich that delivers a soul-satisfying fast-food flavor with high-quality ingredients.

Photo by Debee Tlumacki for The Boston Globe

The Margherita pizza at the 16C restaurant in Quincy.

16C could justify itself on its pizzas alone. I’m thinking they’re the best around: Big rectangular sheet pies served with lots of topping combos. We loved the Margherita.

On a third, Saturday night visit, the grilled salmon ($24) has a nice finish and the farro salad that sides it is fresh and clean-tasting. The only dish on three visits that was merely good was the chicken under a brick ($24).

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Desserts at this place? You probably shouldn’t even think about them. I’m guessing there’ll never be a bad one: Lynch Delaney is a pastry chef! Homemade ice cream and gelato ($9) is four little pots, one flavor more delicious than the next: Mexican hot chocolate kicks you on the way down. Homemade cookies kill ($6), and a peach crostata with caramel sauce and homemade vanilla ice cream ($6) takes the cake.

16C Restaurant, 16 Cottage St., Quincy, 617-481-2170, www.16crestaurant.com.

Joan Wilder can be reacehd at joan.wilder@gmail.com.
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