Cuba’s moment of transition

The United States and Cuba restored diplomatic relations today, beginning a new post-Cold War era. Earlier this summer, photographer Suzanne Kreiter traveled back to Cuba, 21 years after her first visit there for The Boston Globe. This rare moment of transition, as diplomatic relations between Cuba and the United States resume, provides an opportunity to see old and new Cuba, past and future, through the same lens. Get the full multimedia experience and see what Cuba was like 21 years ago .
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Restored cars, many with Japanese engines, line up in front of the old Capitol building waiting for tourists. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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An apartment building with million dollar oceanfront views on the Malecón has been condemned for the past 30 years. It is filled with office workers and young children playing dangerously close to broken railings and gigantic holes in the floors. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Visions of development of the future are visible along the Prado. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Havana's streets shimmer after an afternoon rain. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Bob and Alex Lonergan, from Atlanta, Ga., dine on the rooftop of La Guarida Restaurant. The price of a meal at Havana’s top restaurants is out of reach for most Cubans. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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William Lopez and his 7-year-old daughter, Mailliw, (William spelled backwards) live in a small two-room home in El Hueco, a bleak settlement next to the old railroad tracks southwest of Havana. Little has changed in this neighborhood in the past five decades. Many still don't have running water. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Port Esperanza is a poor fishing village at the dead end of a rutted road north of Havana. The small marina is ringed with barbed wire to discourage defections. Local villagers dream of a cruise ship packed with Americans and their money landing at Port Hope. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Sixto Fernandez,74, who has lived in El Hueco for 60 years, adds to his income by making charcoal by burning piles of wood under the hot jungle sun all day. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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A man carries construction supplies past men fishing along the Malecón. Once crumbling buildings along the famed Malecón are being transformed into fancy bars and restaurants for tourists. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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In El Hueco, ancient cars and skinny young animals share the road. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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After school, children congregate along the Malecón, trying their luck with fishing line. Ronald Lienel, 9, caught some sardines in hopes of reeling in larger fish. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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The Martinez family has long wanted to welcome tourists on their small tobacco farm in Pinar del Río. Two months ago, they finally got a permit to welcome visitors. A full tour, which includes a cup of coffee and a Habano cigar costs about $1.75. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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The capital of Matanzas Province was once home to writers and intellectuals and a hub of sugar cane and tobacco industries. Today many of the once magnificent downtown buildings are collapsing or shuttered. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Raoul Zapata Bajo, 77, lives in Matanzas. The roof in his kitchen has partially collapsed and is being held up by uneven bricks and a temporary pole. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Juliette Fernandez, 10, lives in El Hueco in a one-bedroom wooden shack with her mother and two siblings. They just got electricity in the past year, yet they have no water or toilet. Her mother, named America, resents the growing tourist industry in Havana, she says: "I know that it’s happening. Why do those people have so much more money than me?” (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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The sea wall along the Malecón becomes the city’s biggest sofa when the sun goes down. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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A single barber chair in a tiny wooden shack in El Hueco is the neighborhood salon. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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A new hair salon gets finishing touches on Concordia Street in Havana. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Marie Tejeda uses a 40-year-old Russian washing machine that has no lid or working controls other than the power plug. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Hand towels for the bathroom at the famous La Guarida restaurant hang to dry before the restaurant opens for dinner. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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A 50-year blockade has created one of the most unique rolling museums in the world. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Diego Reyes helps his neighbor repair his 1953 Dodge. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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On a 100 degree day in Matanzas, a “Frankenstein” fan, made from re-animated Chinese and Russian parts, is put to the test. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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A woman tries to hail a “straight arrow cab” -- a cab going in only one direction, more like a bus, and less expensive than the cabs for tourists. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Gerardo Fernandez, 61, lost his leg to diabetes in 2013. He waited two years before he received his prosthetic from Germany. He has applied for a pension and physical therapy in his home, where he lives alone, but so far nothing has happened. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Body mechanic Guillermo Wilson Chibas is in favor of President Obama’s initiatives, but wants Cuba to keep a socialist government. “We hope that the US will respect our conditions and our way of doing things…socialism has helped a lot of people.” (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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The oceanfront Panorama Hotel gets a window wash. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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In the lobby of the Hotel Sevilla, an elegant establishment with Moorish touches where Al Capone is said to have once rented out an entire floor, a group of boisterous young men from Holland dressed in brilliant Hawaiian shirts posed for a selfie before charging toward a fleet of gleaming American Chevrolets — the tourist vehicle of choice. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Four-year-old Erianni Diaz has twice fallen through a hole in the floor of the condemned hotel where she and her grandmother live in the poor city of Matanzas. She is waiting for optic nerve surgery. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Yunior Parra, a real estate agent, conducts business on a bench along the Prado, wearing a T-shirt featuring Che Guevara as he hands out leaflets. “It’s part of my image,” he said, thrusting his fist into the air. “It means I am a serious man, a man who can be trusted, just like Che.” (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Julie Narango, a waitress at a brand new Viñales restaurant has never met an American before. “All Cuban people are scared of the change. We have lived so quietly for so long, 50 years in the same system. We do want more, but it’s very hard to know what is coming.” (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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The Committee for the Defense of the Revolution promoted vigilance in keeping an eye on your neighbors with this painting on a Havana wall. Socialist party propaganda is everywhere. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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Long defined by belligerence and trade barriers, the relationship between Cuba and the US is on the cusp of revolution. A journey across the island finds many Cubans wary of what is headed their way. (SUZANNE KREITER/GLOBE STAFF)
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