The new tastes of New England
If chefs like Mike Wiley of Hugo’s in Portland have their way, fine dining menus, with their unlimited year-round fresh produce and expensive cuts of meat, will soon be replaced by a cuisine that is a more specific expression of New England’s seasons, landscape, and culture. To some, that resembles the new Nordic cuisine, which is largely hunted, foraged, and fished in waters near Scandinavia. Jason Bond of Bondir, who does not consider himself a locavore, is also cooking like this, gleaning vines from the fields after the harvest, making pasta with barley flour, savory custard with washed rind cheese. Is this the new New England cuisine?