Where to Cósmica at the South End’s Revolution Hotel.
Why Tacos and tamales in festive environs.
The backstory This restaurant, tucked inside a mid-century hotel that looks like a cross between a middle school and a YMCA, is the latest from the team behind the South End’s Beehive and Harvard Square’s Beat Brew Hall. The exterior might give you flashbacks to calculus class, but inside it’s adults-friendly. The 30-seat bar swarms with folks drinking margaritas; a languid techno-bop loops on the speakers; and a picture of a sombrero-wearing worm (is it a worm?) welcomes guests: “Now entering the pants optional portion of the evening.” Executive chef Colton Coburn-Wood, who has worked at Beat and Yellow Door Taqueria, heads up the kitchen.
What to eat Mexican street food with some detours and plenty of gluten-free choices. The menu is divided into plates, tacos and bowls, and specialties. Start with chips (sturdy and salty); guacamole arrives a bit too cold and a bit too quickly, but a smoky, smooth red salsa makes up for it. Tamale Colorado is served de-husked, stuffed with pork braised in spicy red chili, a healthy splash of salsa verde, and pickled cauliflower and carrots. As with its sibling restaurants, veggie lovers are well-tended at Cósmica: Try Brussels sprouts with raisins and toasted almonds ($13); corn (off the cob, $13); and sweet potato-mushroom tacos, served as an ancient grains bowl ($19) or on organic corn tortillas ($12). For heartier appetites, a lime-inflected hominy adobo lamb stew ($24) or duck and pork carnitas, served with plantains ($23), both gluten-free.
What to drink Margaritas on tap, boozy slushies (a-swirl behind the bar), red and white sangria, Modelo on tap, and a long roster of tequila and mezcal shots.
The Takeaway A cheerful nook with congenial service and lots of options for gluten-free diners. My server wanted to know whether I was stopping in for a bite after work, appeared routinely at my side to inquire about my first few bites of each dish, and even preemptively assured me that his credit-card machine had been thoroughly sanitized before I signed my check tableside. This hospitality appears to extend to the hotel: One weary traveler whose room wasn’t yet ready was told that she could simply stretch out in another one until her bed was made.
Cósmica, 40 Berkeley St., South End, Boston, 617-313-7878, www.cosmicaboston.com
Kara Baskin can be reached at kara.baskin@globe.com. Follow her @kcbaskin.