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FOOD

Colette opens a second bakery in Melrose

Pastries at Colette.Handout

The success of their French bakery Colette in Medford spurred owner Nathalie Beddiar and her husband, Franck, to open a second one in Melrose.

“This time was easier. It was pretty normal because it wasn’t the pandemic,” Nathalie says. (The couple opened their Medford location as businesses closed.)

Nevertheless, when their Melrose Colette Bakery opened in July, there was a line winding down the street. The “Opening Soon” sign on the picture window delighted neighbors who looked forward to authentic Parisian pain au chocolat and other buttery, flaky Viennoise pastries, brioches, baguette de champagne with pointed tips, and dense, crusty sourdough rounds. The glass case brims with small tarts artfully topped with fruits, éclairs, and elegant creamy pastries, and more. Here the bakers create the towering pièce montée — an architectural confection built with discs of caramel and adorned with spheres of choux pastry (the kind used for profiteroles and éclairs) filled with custard cream, and dotted with sugar crystals.

Customers come for sandwiches — the Parisian (bistro ham and Swiss on a baguette) and Colette’s Slaw (chicken curry salad and homemade coleslaw on focaccia), and much more. Bright and cheery, as bakeries are, the place echoes Paris — even the wallpaper features a sketch of the Eiffel Tower and its surrounding neighborhood.

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Originally from Toulouse in the southwest of France, the Beddiars moved to Boston five years ago. Their baker, Noé Doucet, now 23, came from Paris, where he worked at the prestigious Hotel Plaza Athénée. Now he bakes for both locations with the help of the Beddiars’ son, Valetin, 21, who joined last year. Overseeing the counter here is their daughter Clémentine, 23.

“We are truly a family business,” says Nathalie.

Indeed it is — even the bakery is named after the family dog.

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465 Main St., Melrose, 781-620-2743, and 509 Main St., Medford, 781-396-2313.


Ann Trieger Kurland can be reached at anntrieger@gmail.com.