As a weak coastal low-pressure system continues to push northwest across New England today, warnings for high surfs and dangerous rip currents have been posted from Cape Cod up through Portland, Maine.
The high surf advisories and rip current alerts are in effect through this evening due to dangerous swimming and surfing conditions. With the center of the storm’s track approaching the coast from the northern Atlantic, increased swells and waves from offshore wind gusts up to 30 miles per hour have elevated the intensity along the shoreline.
A rip current is a powerful, narrow channel of water flowing away from the beach and often extending through the breaker zone where waves form. They can emerge on sunny days, and can quickly sweep even the strongest swimmer out to sea.
Large breaking waves usually produce strong rip currents as ocean water attempts to restore balance. The increased amount of water onshore will quickly flow back to the ocean, funneling toward the easiest route back — creating a rip current.
Rip currents sound fast because they are — the speed of retreating water can reach up to 8 to 10 feet per second, which is a rate faster than any human can swim and can become very dangerous in a hurry. If you are caught in a rip current, don’t fight it. Rather, swim out with the current, then parallel to the shoreline before turning back towards the coast.
“Think of it like a treadmill that cannot be turned off, which you need to step to the side of,” the National Weather Service says.
Wave heights will vary along the east coast of New England today, reaching anywhere from 2 to 6 feet along the coast, depending on local geography.
Every year dozens of people die from rip currents. Earlier this month, a woman was rescued and several other swimmers required assistance from lifeguards when a rip current created dangerous conditions at Old Orchard Beach in Maine.
The good news is temperatures are cooler than average today and with bouts of rain, there shouldn’t be to many beachgoers to test the waters. Coming off shore into the region, many folks will see rounds of rain and cloudy skies throughout the day.
Ken Mahan can be reached at ken.mahan@globe.com. Follow him on Instagram @kenmahantheweatherman.