MORRIS, Conn. — I’ve never written an apology letter to a resort, hotel, or spa, but I feel compelled to offer a sincere “I’m sorry” to Winvian Farm in western Connecticut. I was wrong, Winvian. Can you forgive me?
Last year, I wrote a story describing the Litchfield Hills resort as a place to “indulge all of your bizarre hotel room fantasies.” Essentially, I reduced Winvian to an over-the-top, campy, gimmick hotel.
The problem is that Winvian isn’t campy. It’s actually quite elegant. The resort has 18 guest cottages and one suite, each with a different theme. I know this because I visited a friend who spent a weekend in the Helicopter cottage, which had a real helicopter in it. She called me with equal parts panic and amazement in her voice about the presence of the whirlybird, telling me it was essential to see it with my own eyes and that she’d hit the kitsch jackpot.
I visited her to witness the helicopter contained within the walls of the cottage and, more importantly, to confirm she wasn’t hallucinating. But that was the extent of my Winvian Farm experience. What more did I need to know? I’ve stayed at kooky hotels. I knew the drill.
But after I dismissed Winvian as a bizarre, pricey gimmick, the readers of Condé Nast Traveler voted it the top spa in the country, besting several big-name wellness resorts. At first, I assumed there was another Winvian, perhaps one that didn’t have a Helicopter cottage, a treehouse, or a lodge that looked as if it had been decorated by beavers with expensive taste.
I was completely unaware that the property even had a spa, let alone that posh Condé Nast Traveler readers would have Winvian on their radar. It also made the magazine’s list of the top 17 wellness resorts worldwide. However, perhaps the most significant endorsement came from Oprah Winfrey. The media mogul listed it in her first-ever Oprah Daily Hotel O-Wards last month under the “Trips That Transform” category. I also didn’t know it was part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux hotel group.
I had clearly missed something — well, a lot of things. If Winvian was good enough for almighty Oprah, I had no right to call it “a theme hotel with some of the strangest motifs I’ve ever seen.” August was National Wellness Month, so I decided that was an excellent excuse to reassess and see if I was wrong. If Winvian had the best spa in the country, I’d need to do some investigative journalism, such as get a facial or a massage. It also has the only AAA Five Diamond restaurant in Connecticut, so I’d need to sample the menu there, too.
As per Globe policy, the resort did not know a travel writer was on the premises when I checked into the Woodlands cottage. The cottage is massive, with what appears to be several large trees growing through it, soaring ceilings, and windows everywhere. Outside, trees surround it (Winvian is situated on 113 acres), so fortunately for other guests, I was never on full naked display when I soaked in the massive sunken tub. My room had a steam shower, a mini waterfall, and any other comfort I could want, including a television that emerged from the bed’s footboard at the touch of a button. My room had a theme, but it also felt luxurious.
Luxury comes at a price; at Winvian, that price was $750 a night. On the plus side, the room was more than 1,000 square feet. It felt like a true escape and was incredibly peaceful.
I made an appointment for a facial at the much-heralded spa, watching each step to see what made it so special. I was immediately disarmed when the esthetician told me I looked 10 years younger than my age. “I’ll bet you say that to all the old queens,” I coquettishly replied, secretly loving the compliment.
The facial felt wonderful. At the end, I sat on a chaise lounge with a glass of post-facial champagne and looked over the manicured lawn. I was so relaxed that I nearly dozed off. But if this was a wellness retreat, I needed to try some activities promoting healthy living. There was a pair of bikes outside my cottage, so I pedaled around the grounds to check out the architecture of the other cottages and then biked to some nearby walking trails.
When I finished, I thought I deserved a swim in the heated pool as a reward for all my labors. I had dinner among the WASP-iest crowd I’d ever seen at the resort’s restaurant. Still, the summer salad (burrata, tomatoes, and green beans) was incredibly fresh and harvested from the garden at the resort. The hand-rolled cavatelli in a rabbit ragout had just the right texture (not too chewy, not mushy) and seasoning. I was too stuffed for dessert.
My final report: I can neither confirm nor deny that Winvian is the top spa in the country. I’d need to spend the next two years visiting spas to determine. (Note to my editor: I’m willing to spend the next two years visiting spas.) But I can say that it was a pleasant surprise, and next time I encounter a helicopter in a cottage, I won’t be so quick to rush to judgment.
155 Alain White Road, Morris, Conn., www.winvian.com, 860-567-9600.
Christopher Muther can be reached at christopher.muther@globe.com. Follow him @Chris_Muther and Instagram @chris_muther.