CHARLESTON, S.C. — “Bugs try to land on me but they slide right off!” “I’ve been in saunas cooler than this.” “You can stand next to me if you promise not to talk about the heat.” These were among the comments we heard on our summer trip to Charleston. (OK, we’re lying about the last one. That’s from the 1981 noir classic “Body Heat,” one of the sultriest film experiences ever. Those sweaty lovers Kathleen Turner and William Hurt? So hot.)
Even when its cobblestone streets are sizzling, Charleston is, well, Charleston. It’s number two on Travel +Leisure’s list of favorite US cities, and has reigned as tops for a dozen years. Called the Holy City because of its 400 churches, this coastal city offers an unbeatable blend of history, architectural gems, inviting waterfront, Lowcountry cuisine, and great shopping. Just 20 or so minutes away are beautiful beaches. It’s got a yacht-y, preppy vibe, style-wise: “It’s the southern version of Nantucket,” a visitor from Watertown said.
If you can’t handle the heat, go now. “Fall typically brings lower humidity and cooler temperatures, offering beautiful weather for outdoor activities, beach visits, and exploring the Charleston region,” says Chris Campbell of Explore Charleston (www.explorecharleston.com). It’s a quieter vibe, but there’s plenty happening, including the third annual Food + Wine Classic in Charleston, Nov. 13-15. (For more, visit www.charlestoncvb.com/events.) And there’s a bonus: Lodging prices trend slightly lower in fall compared to spring, and airfares dip from their summer peak, especially if you travel midweek. We found fares for just over $200 for nonstop Saturday-Tuesday flights.
Our real find, though: The Inn at Middleton Place (from $161; www.theinnatmiddletonplace.com). Now, this one isn’t downtown — it’s part of a 110-acre complex on Plantation Row along Ashley River Road. Unlike the cheek-by-jowl pastel-hued mansions in the city proper, Middleton Place is pure South Carolina countryside, tucked under live oaks swathed in curtains of Spanish moss. The property, a National Historic Landmark, has hosted Founding Fathers, statesmen, and diplomats. And you, if you choose to overnight in one of the inn’s 55 rooms.
The main house was originally built as the Middleton family residence in 1705; that, and a northern flanking building, was burned by Union troops in 1865 and leveled by an earthquake in 1886. A south-flanking house, built in 1755, became the family’s residence after the Civil War. It is now a museum. The House Museum currently holds an exhibit dedicated to the American Revolution, including a rare silk copy of the Declaration of Independence.
The most stunning element of Middleton Place is the historic gardens, a lush wonderland of crepe myrtles, tea olives, and some of America’s oldest camellias, with floral allées, ornamental butterfly-shaped lakes, terraced lawns, and sunken gardens, dotted with statuary. Animals share the property, heritage breeds including sheep, goats, and guinea fowl. At the equestrian center, guests can sign up for trail rides.
Given all this, you might expect the guest rooms at the Inn at Middleton Place to be ‘ye-olde/quaint,’ but no — they’re situated in design-forward buildings on the riverside. Floor-to-ceiling windows have retractable cedar shutters, flat-screen Roku TVs, Wi-Fi, mini-fridges, and cushy king- or queen-size beds. Not to mention air conditioning and wood-burning fireplaces for cooler months. Hammocks and Adirondack chairs add to the pastoral vibe. There’s an outdoor swimming pool overlooking the river — unheated, but Mom Nature takes care of that. The only downside is, you’re a 20- or 30-minute drive from downtown Charleston. Ride shares are readily available, but you may want to spring for a rental car, especially if you plan to go to the beach.
But we were happy to enjoy the city by day and then escape to the country. And we liked the value-added complimentary amenities at the Inn at Middleton Place: admission to the museum and gardens, happy hour at The Lodge, and a hearty breakfast at the Lake House. Dinner at the Restaurant at Middleton Place is a must for exquisite Lowcountry dining.
The Restaurant at Middleton Place isn’t bargain-priced, but there are several places around town that offer an excellent taste of Charleston that aren’t wildly spendy. Charleston Crab House (www.charlestoncrabhouse.com) offers shrimp and grits in two versions. The entrée-size portion, with shrimp, smoked sausage, and peppers ($25.95), is big enough for sharing; add a house salad ($8.95). Open Monday-Saturday, Legend Deli (legenddeli.com) has quickly become a favorite thanks to overstuffed sandwiches with punny names, like Ham-Ela Anderson ($16) and all-day breakfast. For brunch, Gabrielle at the Hotel Bennett, downtown (www.hotelbennett.com) is worth a splurge; they offer a fun spin on grits, Nashville Hot chicken and grits ($29) featuring stoneground grits, pickles, Brussels sprouts, bacon, pea tendrils, and of course, spicy chicken.
All of the Charleston-area beaches are free, although you’ll pay to park. We chose Isle of Palms, a barrier island bordered by the Atlantic Ocean and the Intracoastal Waterway, a lovely long stretch that invites a beach walk. Before you go, grab picnic fixings at Get Carried Away Southern Market (www.getcarriedaway.com). Their chicken salad and Brookies (brownie-meets-cookie) are worth the trip. If you’re still around IOP at dinnertime, pop into Islander 71 Fish House (www.islander71.com) at the marina, a local favorite where you can watch dolphins at play as you dine on crab dip, fresh seafood, and banana pudding that will transport you to childhood. Our waitperson, Buffy, from Plymouth, N.H., has happily decamped to Isle of Palms. “I mean, look at this!” she said, pointing to sunset on the sparkly harbor. We get it, girl.
What else belongs on your summer agenda? The Charleston Museum ($15; www.charlestonmuseum.org), founded in 1773, tells the stories of the South Carolina Lowcountry in a compelling way, including its natural history. The Charleston Tea Garden (www.charlestonteagarden.com) offers free tours of America’s only tea factory and tea farm. The harvesting and production processes are in full swing in summer. We truly loved the South Carolina Aquarium (scaquarium.org); it is massive and beautifully done, with a 385,000-gallon Great Ocean Tank, the deepest in North America. We wish we could tell you that it’s cheap; it’s not. But they use dynamic pricing, so if you plan a visit for, say, a Tuesday afternoon, you might get lucky and snag an adult ticket for $35.40.
Overlooking Charleston Harbor and the Cooper River, 10-acre Joe Riley Waterfront Park is a perfect place to catch a welcome breeze, watch the boats pass by, and pay your respects to the city’s famous Pineapple Fountain. Still hot? Hop onto the Charleston Water Taxi (all-day pass $17; charlestonwatertaxi.com) to get to popular landmarks, spot dolphins, or simply cool off.
Next time we visit, we’re taking one of those nighttime ghost tours. You’ll get a sense of the city’s dark side at Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon (www.oldexchange.org), but there’s more to the story — Charleston is considered to be one of the most haunted cities in America.
Now that’s chilling.
More budget-friendly tips
For recommendations on free and low-cost events in Charleston during your stay, follow @chsforless on Instagram, run by bargain queens Riley Davis, Alyssa Driggers, and Grayson Taylor. We asked them to share some of their best, general tips for visitors. Here’s a peek at some we love.
Free museum: The Gibbes Museum of Art (www.gibbesmuseum.org) is free on Wednesday nights from 5 to 8 p.m. The first-floor exhibit area is always free to visit.
Happy hour: Baba’s Apertivo Hour (three locations: 11 Cannon, 804 Meeting, and 115 Wentworth streets; babascharleston.com ) offers free “elevated European-style” snacks with the purchase of a cocktail or glass of wine on Friday and Saturday from 4 to 6 p.m.
Cheap eats: Wednesday nights from 5 to 9 p.m., take advantage of $10 smash burgers at hip/chic Park and Grove restaurant (www.parkandgrovechs.com).
Affordable stay: The retro ‘60s Starlight Motor Inn (www.starlightchs.com) in North Charleston offers poolside double-bunk rooms for under $100 per night. At just $25 per person, it’s a great choice for the bachelor/bachelorette crowd or budget-minded families. They’ve got a swingin’ lounge too.
Lowcountry Lowline: Coming in 2027, this free 1.7-mile linear park, a former railway corridor, will connect downtown Charleston to West Ashley, Mt. Pleasant, and North Charleston.
Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at bairwright@gmail.com