Robin King grew up in Colombia, then lived for awhile in Mexico. He loved the food in those places, so it’s not surprising that the newest venture with his wife, Jill, has a Latin theme. But Tesoro Latin Kitchen also offers what he described as samplings from everywhere, and based on our recent visit, the pair are successful wherever they go.
Tesoro is in the Inn at Scituate Harbor, a couple of blocks from the Kings’ other restaurant, Oro. Jill King said they had approached the inn about running the kitchen and ended up taking over the restaurant space. Tesoro opened this past winter, which Robin described as a quirky time to open a restaurant, but he said this gave them some quieter months to gear up for the season and “tweak things.”
Robin wanted to call the restaurant something that would retain the Oro idea (“Oro” is an acronym of their son’s name, Owen Robert). Robin said he had been stressing out over a new name when one day he heard his mother say “Adios, tesoro” to his son. He knew right away that this was what he had been looking for; tesoro means “treasure” in Spanish.
Tesoro has a more casual feel than Oro and encourages people to share dishes.
When we visited on a recent Saturday night, there was a wait for the patio, so we put in our name and headed inside to have drinks at the bar. There are tables inside as well, and with the working fireplace and cozy feel, I’m sure everyone will by vying for seats there in the winter. But at this time of year, a spot on the patio seems most coveted.
The bartender greeted us right away and went through the margarita list, offering suggestions and explaining how they make their own spicy tequila by infusing it with peppers. I later heard him tell another patron who was worried that the margaritas would be too sweet that that wouldn’t be a problem, since they make their own sour mix.
We started off with a classic margarita with hibiscus ($9) and the El Rey version ($10), which combines Cointreau and lime with a “ruby blend” of grapefruit, pomegranate, orange, and blood orange juices. As promised, the margaritas were not too sweet. They were balanced and refreshing.
To accompany them, we ordered chips and guacamole ($10). The chips are made in house (as is nearly everything else at Tesoro) and were crispy and lightly salted — a perfect complement to the guacamole, a smooth and chunky mix of avocado with tomatoes, red onion, cilantro, and lime.
We had just polished off the basket when our table was ready. The patio has a mix of regular- height tables, lounge chairs, and high tables; a view of the water; and lots of plants and flowers, giving it ambience as well as privacy from the road. It almost has the feel of being on someone’s backyard patio.
We ordered another round of margaritas, this time trying the classic with blood orange ($9) and the prairie flower ($11), before diving into the food options. The prairie flower gets hits of spice from jalapeño, a floral essence from elderflower liqueur, and an herby freshness from bits of sage and lime.
One of Robin’s biggest concerns was having a menu that’s authentic but still accessible to the less adventurous.
“For every option like the arepas, there’s an order of sliders,” he explained. The shaved steak arepas ($12) are Robin’s favorite dish on the menu. The steak is marinated in chimichurri and finished with it as well, affording it lots of flavor to pair with the corn cake and some avocado.
The trio of Baja beef sliders ($10) may be more familiar with their brioche buns, but they also get Robin’s Latin spin with fried red onion, chipotle mayo, and queso fresco. The well-seasoned meat, combined with the flavorful toppings, elevates these sliders above typical ones.
To make the Cubano sandwich ($14), Robin starts with smoked braised pork shoulder that has been cured in a mojo brine of brown sugar, orange and pineapple juices, cinnamon, and red onion. The meat is shredded and chopped, and layered on soft ciabatta with Gruyère and Munster cheeses and prosciutto (to replace the usual ham). The sandwich is a perfect example of how much thought is given to each component of the dishes at Tesoro.
Ingredients are sought locally at farmers markets, the 100 percent organic garden at Owen’s school, and the Kings’ own garden, according to Jill.
As for seafood, “fresh fish is right there,” said Robin, referring to Scituate Harbor and his recently obtained commercial fishing license. “The idea of going out, catching a fish, and offering it at your restaurant is full circle,” said Robin, who plans to offer his catches at both restaurants.
Fish shows up on the menu in tacos as well as specials. The type of fish depends on the daily catch, and when we went, the tortillas were filled with seared tuna paired with a crunchy jicama slaw, basil, and fried garlic ($15). The freshness of the tuna came through in each bite.
Other taco options are tacos al pastor, a combination of roasted pork and pineapple, and the buttermilk fried chicken tacos ($14) that we sampled. The crispy fried chicken mingles with a charred corn salsa and avocado ranch, which give it a summery, Latin edge.
Other than the ice cream — salted caramel, chocolate, and vanilla, which they get locally from Nona’s — desserts are made in house. There’s usually flan and sometimes tres leches cake.
With its creative and thoughtfully prepared dishes, innovative margarita options, and patio overlooking the water, Tesoro wears its name well.
Megan Ginsberg writes about food on her blog www.megan-deliciousdishings.
blogspot.com. Follow her on Twitter @DeliciousDish.